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KT100 SA Blueprint
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Walt Gifford



Joined: 19 Jul 2002
Posts: 4390
Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,

PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 6:20 pm    Post subject: KT100 SA Blueprint Reply with quote

The weather's getting warmer, time for me to get my little go kart engine ready. This motor was blown up bad when I got it ($60) but looks like it's never been machined. Piston was a 52.40 so it's had a good bit of run time and ready for blueprinting.

First have to have some clearance for the chain. Looks like it's been rubbing.



All better, took off about .150"



Raw casting under the bolt heads, 5/8ths counter bore with 1/16th radius and 1/4" pilot should make a nice spot face.



Ready for some thick 6mm washers.



Lets clean up that pulse hole with a .125" drill.



Oh look this case has a casting flaw (lol), I'm pointing it out with my dremel tool.



Glad it doesn't break out into the gasket area.



A little lapping with some 220 paper on my grade B granite surface plate shows the case halfs to be pretty flat from the factory.



More later.

Gif Cool
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Yamaha KT100 Service Center
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Last edited by Walt Gifford on Tue Apr 23, 2013 5:14 pm, edited 3 times in total
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Eric Vukich



Joined: 24 Jan 2011
Posts: 12

PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 3:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is pretty amazing stuff. I've never seen the work that goes into these motors when they are blueprinted. I just know they come out running much better than before!
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Walt Gifford



Joined: 19 Jul 2002
Posts: 4390
Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,

PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let it be known that not all of the work I will show here is smiled upon in the tech tent. Title reads SA blueprint which stands for stock appearing so, check your local rules.

Gif Cool
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CLIFF BRYANT



Joined: 15 Apr 2013
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very interesting, like to see more of what goes into building one of these engines. nice pics too.
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Walt Gifford



Joined: 19 Jul 2002
Posts: 4390
Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,

PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2013 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, trying to get my file size down.

Well, had to work on my mower today but got a little done on the cylinder. First I cut the muff back to let the liner stick out .005".



Then I lapped the gasket surface first with 320 then 800 paper. This one was dished, higher on the OD, lower on the ID. I've found some that were quite uneven. It's flat now.



Gif Cool
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Walt Gifford



Joined: 19 Jul 2002
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Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,

PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the case cleaned up and put together. had to add a couple of brass shims to get the crank axis dialed in square with the lathe.



Took a light .001" facing cut, you can see it's a bit uneven.



It wasn't too bad another thou cleaned it up.



Gif Cool
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JIM SILVERHEELS



Joined: 22 Jul 2006
Posts: 598
Location: United States, Massachusetts, LUDLOW

PostPosted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 11:49 am    Post subject: Giff Reply with quote

Giff, hope it's not a no no asking you, but where did ya get the rod thru the bearings for indication please?
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Pete Muller
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Joined: 23 Jul 2001
Posts: 1950
Location: United States, California,

PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cliff,

Here is some information that might be of use:

http://www.muller.net/mullermachine/howto/blueprint/index.html


.... and a few photos showing a post-machined lower end.

http://www.muller.net/mullermachine/process/index.html


PM
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Walt Gifford



Joined: 19 Jul 2002
Posts: 4390
Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,

PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2013 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jim, I'm a poboy (got the Tee shirt) so I make my own tools but LAD makes everything you might need.

Had to cut the footies. They had allot of damaged and I got into the ignition housing before they cleaned up.



Had to mill .020" to get clearance for the motor mount.



The bolts usually used for mounts only engage 1/4" of threads and footies can get stripped out. I like to bottom tap and use the longest bolts I can.



Now I do the cylinder base a little different because an expanding mandrel is too expensive for a poboy. Also, I think the expanding mandrel is allot harder to set up and once set up you have to break it down to install the cylinder, lot of chances for error imho.

Here is a little tool I made that allows me to reach all the way into the cylinder and line up the top and bottom so there's no question the bore is true with the lathe.



And then I cut the base. This one was very close side to side which is the main concern but was tilted back .004". I can also bore it while it's still lined up.



Gif Cool
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Jerry VanDeusen



Joined: 26 Sep 2001
Posts: 415

PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice work
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Walt Gifford



Joined: 19 Jul 2002
Posts: 4390
Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,

PostPosted: Fri May 03, 2013 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it all bored out, the damage in the top of the transfer port web cleaned up just enough at 2.155".



I cleaned and installed the studs with blue loctite at 90 In.Lbs.



Home made torque plates. The bottom plate has a tang for clamping in the vise and the header is installed with 120 In. Lbs.



Did some initial honing to smooth it out for measurements.



Called Burris and discussed sizes. They measured several pistons and found one the perfect size. I only had to finish hone .001" extra which is what I wanted to do. Great customer service, thank you Burris for making the larger sizes so we can get more use from these cylinders.



Last step was to relieve the exhaust bridge .003" and break all the sharp port edges, tedious hand work with a fine India stone.



Gif Cool
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Yamaha KT100 Service Center
40 years karting experience
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CLIFF BRYANT



Joined: 15 Apr 2013
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. a lot of good usefull info on your site too. Thanks
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Damien Scurlock



Joined: 11 May 2012
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Walt any chance you can take a photo of your fixture for holding barrel (jug) in lathe for facing bottom/ boring?
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Walt Gifford



Joined: 19 Jul 2002
Posts: 4390
Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,

PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2013 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's the top torque plate held in a 4 jaw chuck. I take the studs out and use bolts for clearance on the chuck.

Gif Cool
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Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001
Yamaha KT100 Service Center
40 years karting experience
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Walt Gifford



Joined: 19 Jul 2002
Posts: 4390
Location: United States, South Jerrrsey,

PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally getting to the fun stuff. This is part of my noise suppression system. This system will help fill the crankcase before the valve opens so the classic piston port pop won't be as loud.

The new McCulloch 101aa reeds are here! I cut up a couple of old ones to get the pattern right.



Have to drill a couple of holes free hand to connect the reeds to the intake. The angle was 60 degrees and had to step drill 1/8, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and ended up with 27/64ths. Drill bit constantly fetching up in that angled hole, my wrists are killing me.



Holes after drilling. They still need some blending but it got late tonight. The 3 reed plate holes are 6-32 and are flat heads.



Angle view, you can see where they come out. Pretty cool, I think I got lucky right there.



With reed set in place (no screws). The placement is a tight fit and the case is smaller than the base of the cylinder so they have to be crammed up against the iron liner for maximum gasket area.



Next I have to make the reed cut out in the case.

Gif Cool
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Nicholson Speedway class champion 2001
Yamaha KT100 Service Center
40 years karting experience
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